Subabat: Tales of Sisterhood in Hospitality
Definition: What is the Subaba profession?
Subaba is a common term in Saudi Arabia and the Gulf region, and refers to the working women in the hospitality field. The Subabat prepare and serve Arabic coffee, tea, desserts and other alimentary treats. The root Arabic word of Subaba is subb and translates to “to pour”. Clients hire Subabat for their service in various all-female social events and especially in wedding ceremonies. The term also includes Subabat who work in private houses and palaces.
In the Saudi Vocational Classification Guide, female Subabat and male Sababeen fall under the vocational title “Bartender” (or more accurately, coffee tender), in Arabic قهوجي Qahwaji, and is defined as: “one who prepares beverages such as coffee, tea, cocoa, Arabic coffee and other beverages ordered by customers.”
A majority of Saudis and those working in the profession generically use the two terms “Subaba” and “Coffee tender (Qahwaji)” interchangeably as synonyms. However, there are precise differences in the assigned duties for each job title which become more evident in larger teams of Subabat.
The Focus of this Photo Essay
This research paper focuses on the socioeconomic factors and background from which the profession of Subabat evolved and developed.
For the purposes of this research, I will focus on Saudi Subabat in social events, which will be referred to later as ‘Event Subabat’ or simply ‘Subabat’, particularly in Riyadh city and hosted in houses, private and commercial ‘istirahas’, wedding halls etc.
This research is based on months of in-person and phone interviews with Saudi Subabat from various generations whose experience range from 6 to 40 years, in addition to administrative and technical staff.
It is worth noting that the research’s emphasis on female Subabat does not imply that it is an exclusive-female profession; men are known to prepare and pour coffee in all-men events. This research focuses on female workers for the purpose of enriching content in research and art concerned with the history and documentation of women’s stories and lives in Saudi Arabia.
Introduction
The delicate cladding of the bukhnaq around her neck, head and hair bun,
its black sheerness gushes towards her sash,
Gracefully embracing her gold-adorned bare neck,
it shawls her left arm loosely,
and taps her hand gently when she stops to pour another cup.
Lifting her elbow, tilting the dallah
a stream of golden coffee flows,
in a cup she rightly-hands with the resonating kiss of the dallah.
I extend my hand and meet her gaze
framed by the mid parting of her finely groomed hair.
A finesse
that is present in every other element of the Subaba’s presence.
Subabat to my 12 year old mind were like a silent film - mesmerising but unsung. Their ability to pass on a rich professional and personal philosophy to the guests, without uttering a word, is worthy of awe and respect in my view. I have been an observer of Subabat’s presence and movement in numerous weddings growing up. My attention has and continues to fail me as the bride approaches her guests, but shrewdly prevails when a Subaba graces my periphery.
While writing this research - some 20 years after I first saw a Subaba - I came to understand that the mystery surrounding them stems from the intimidating loss of human connection; a byproduct of the socioeconomic divide. So, I embarked on this research to study the social and economic aspects of a Subaba’s life, where the Subabat’s accounts formulated a deeper understanding of their essence which I lay out in this photo essay.
My personal and long interest in the subject was rekindled when I spoke with artist and curator Tara Aldugaither about her project ‘Sawt Asura’ documenting Saudi women folklore, particularly musical voices. I had started my research after she announced an artist residency in collaboration with Art Jameel. I express my gratitude to Tara for her dedication, support and inspiring passion. I especially thank the Master Subabat Um Fahad and Um Hassan, and all other Subabat for their responsive participation, kind spirits and great experiences. I also wholeheartedly thank my family and friends for their support, and a special thanks to award winning filmmaker and photographer Hind Alfahhad for her assistance and guidance during and post the photo production process.
It is worth noting two points: First is that the history of Subabat is poorly documented in local resources and references. I was not able to find resources concerning their history in local libraries. Therefore, this research narrates and analyzes the Subabat’s own recollection and their personal expertise in the profession, in addition to relying on some marketing material in online forums and social media accounts. Second, the photos accompanying this essay are a realistic representation of the Subabat working in Saudi hospitality companies, and demonstrate today’s styles and appearances and some aspects of their job. However, the face veil is an exception, Subabat generally do not cover their faces or wear face veils in all-women events, except for rare cases and specific regions around Saudi according to local and social customs, of which this photoshoot is one example.
A video documenting the subabat’s preparation, their appearance and uniform:
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©2021 Elham Dawsari. All rights reserved.
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